Adding a room to an existing home is probably the most cost – effective way to increase the usable interior space of a building. In this article, an addition means what a colleague calls a "three-sided" addition. This sentence is intended to avoid confusion with other types of home additions such as elevation of a building to create a new space at ground level, or lift the roof to Create a story between a floor space and a roof area.

The first consideration when planning an addition is the free height: the height of a ceiling in relation to human proportions. Most building codes stipulate minimum ceiling heights, but, as most people prefer ceilings that are at least eight feet (2.5 m) high, a well designed space will likely meet them Or exceed them.

Begin your design thinking by trying to consider what you consider to be an ideal ceiling height for your added once completed. As mentioned, most prefer a minimum of eight feet, but a few centimeters less than it will always work in a pinch. It is important to start here, because your new ceiling will probably be suspended from the roof structure which, in turn, attach to the existing building. If this frame attaches to an existing building too low, your ceiling will be too low.

Gable Dormer: When most children in the Western world pull a house, it will have a gabled roof. A gable roof is on the reverse "V." A gabled skylight is the same form of roof attached to a main building existing at right angles. It will have a peak as the children's drawing, and where its roof meets the main roof is called a valley. As people have used gabled dormers for centuries, you will not need to look away for an example. The main advantage of a dormer window when the design of an addition is that the ceiling height of the addition is determined by how its peak is compared to the main building. As a general rule, the higher the peak, the higher the available ceiling height.

As with any construction project, there is apparently no end of pro and cons, and compromises have to be found. When using a gabled skylight frame for an addition, the compromise is that much of its weight will relate to the framing of the existing or main roof, as it overlaps this framing. As the main roof frame was not designed to support this extra weight, this main roof frame will need to be reinforced. Of course, there are a few more inputs and outputs namely putting a lid on your addition using the pinion gilt method, but in my opinion this method is the smoothest, and long-term, will offer A better appearance than most alternatives. Due to the structural support, and other necessary structural elements when using a gabled skylight, it will probably cost more as well.

If one considers the golden gable method, one thing to keep in mind is that, The roof skylight of the addition will cover upward. A substantial portion of the existing roof, retain the roofing until the dormer is in place.

Shed roof: The shed roof or skylight shed has an unfortunate name, but when artistically constructed, proves a profitable roofing frame for an addition, as well as an attractive one. Starting again with this "inverted V", the hangar-style addition roof is a flat plan say the shape of a floor tile or a square cracker that encounters a "leg "Upside-down" V "somewhere. "Somewhere" is the word order because this versatile roof top style can, when well supported, be attached anywhere to a main roof building to its exterior wall. For now, assume that the shed roof attaches to the base of the "Reverse V." Ideally, the roof joists your ceiling is suspended from "ground" on the exterior wall plates where the roof rests. The main roof frame. This makes framing easier.

But here is the tricky part of using the discount-style. Unlike the gable method that has its drainage slopes built into the design, this roof tile roof plan must be tilted down, at least a little bit. How much depends on roofing know-how and materials chosen. Using the 1:12 ratio that I consider to be minimum, for each foot the roof stretches from the main building, airplane, that tile or cracker, leaning an inch. The tricky part is that at this ratio, each foot of the main building is one inch less in height. If the addition roof extends to 12 feet (4 m) from the main building, a ceiling eight feet in height becomes seven with the loss of one inch each foot. This means that landing your new addition roof on the existing exterior wall frame may not provide enough height even using the minimum pitch ratio of 1:12. Try this simple formula using a 2:12 height ratio to see why a minimal slope is often used. Losing two inches of head height per foot results in the loss of two feet of free space over 12 feet

With your head in your head, you probably ask, "Can I increase Ceiling to get over Height? "Yes, but at the same time, you will be able to determine where your new roof will fit the existing works. If this firecracker or tile plan lands too far on the inverted" V "of the main roof, it will put weight on the existing roof frames Are not intended to support it.This scenario, as with the gabled dormers, will require some engineering thinking and do, but in my opinion, will be worth it.

Another good way Increasing the room for maneuver is by lowering the floor of the addition.The roofs of the shed are just alike when they connect to a main roof as opposed to being hung from the floor, The problem is, of course, that when the roof of the shed is made up of a single piece of furniture, Away from the building and the margin is lost according to the formula, the ceiling is so low that it is not practical. In this case, about the only option available is to "sink" the addition of one or two steps down to ensure sufficient height.

A main advantage of the shed roof is its simplicity. It does not require advanced woodworking skills to execute as much as roof frame goes. Instead, fitness roofs are difficult in the sense that they not only require better reflection on drainage and roofing materials, but also on how construction loads are transferred to their Foundations, as they are often less obvious than with gabled additions. A final important note regarding the use of a low slope roof is that not only a low slope roof should be used, but extra precautions are needed to ensure that roofing membrane The addition goes up well and under the roofing material of the main building. In general, the lower the slope, the greater the sub-blink.

As always, it is best to plan a construction project to make mistakes on paper rather than on the job. This reflection is particularly true in additions, where certain elements of a plan are predetermined by an existing structure which can be costly to modify considerably. Of course, it is also true that Will usually find a way, so with a bit of "up and down" thought on addition roofs and some basic tools, usable interior space, A building can be dramatically increased without mowing a building and from scratch.


Source by Ken Hunter

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