Are your basement walls bulging, sloping or cracked?

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Are your basement walls BULGING, CRACKING, or BOWING?

Want to Eliminate Gimmicks and Obsolete Basement Repair Strategies Offered Nationally

Local Basement Expert and National Basement Author Reveals Insider Secrets and Exclusive Repair Strategies,

A Problem Structural basement left untreated can dramatically soar the PriceBad framing.

You see with a concrete block or another wall stacked in masonry, the wall draws its strength from the UNIVERSAL DISTRIBUTED weight of the house applying pressure and pushing directly to the top of the walls. This regular distribution ensures that the heavier the house is, the stronger the side load capacity of the wall.

When the house exerts direct pressure on the walls, the evenly distributed load makes the walls very strong. This is extremely important. The way the load transfers to the wall is via a board called a sill plate. The purpose of the sill plate is to transfer the load of the house directly to the top of the wall

When the sill plate is as wide as the top of the top block, the distribution is uniform. When the sill plate is smaller or partial, there is an unequal distribution of the load; resulting in a wall that is weakened and begins to bend and crack. A partial threshold plate covers only a portion of the upper block and does not come to the inner edge of the wall!

A partial sill plate will put all the pressure on the outer edge of the block wall. This creates a very unstable wall. When other forces and other factors or complicated problems are added to the wall, this can create huge problems!

Other factors include things like: a nearby tree with branches on the roof (the roots grow on the wall) or roof drops spilling at the base of the wall or a bit of a slight negative slope towards home, when coupled with a partial threshold plate: the result is often in case of total failure of the wall. The simple action in a northern climate of freezing and defrosting of the soil against the wall often results in the formation of a long horizontal frost line. This is extremely aggravated when it is coupled with a partial threshold plate problem.

The sad truth is that even though many entrepreneurs claim to know how to do a wall rebuild or a foundation work, almost none of them would ever consider correcting the underlying problem the partial threshold plate. I've seen countless walls that homeowners like you have paid tens of thousands of dollars to rebuild just to see their money rise like a puff of smoke because the entrepreneur has rebuilt the wall in the same way as the one that failed was being replaced. In fact, they will lay new blocks up to the partial threshold plate that caused the problem in the first place! Can you imagine paying money for the same thing that has already been broken?

There is good news …

The problem of the sill plate can be solved inexpensively when the wall repair is done. This means that you can eliminate the underlying cause rather than just putting a band in as a system of beams or wall anchors.

When a wall is destabilized due to an uneven distribution of load (or other factors) to really rectify the problem, which is to remove the earth from it. Another side of him and straighten and repair or rebuild.

The truth about wall anchors and how to use existing wall anchors and make them effective

some companies that install wall anchors for the purpose of stabilizing the wall. I have piles of these wall anchors to my shop from walls that I have rebuilt that have failed after being anchored. The reason these walls fail each time is that the plaque on the interior wall is only about 12 "by 12."

Since mortar joints are often broken on a curved wall, the plaque will only move back the blocks it touches. The companies that install them give you a key and tell you to do a quarter turn every 6 weeks. It does not bring anything back. It's just a scam based on human nature and knowing that homeowners will never give up on the wall until the money is spent.

One way to use the wall anchoring system is to remove the plate and the jackhammer a pocket in the concrete slab. Then, instead of the 12 "by 12" plate, you replace the beam with an 8 "C-beam and cement it into place under the slab and attach its upper part into the woodwork creating three dots.

Of course, the wall anchoring system fails to solve the underlying cause of the problem, nor to do anything to solve the problems of water or mold, it is simply a dressing for a much bigger problem.The pilasters and why they do not work

Some masons will tell you that they can straighten the wall and will use internal pilasters of bars and cement to all the feet on the wall to fish and thread a piece of bar up to the first row of block, especially if the blocks are three cores which are absolutely impossible to get more than two foot sections .The city of Medina, Ohio has a code in the new build that all the ma masonry wal Ls be double-rodded with wire ties and cemented all 24 "in the center. I've rebuilt many walls in the city that were both sloped and displaced from their foundations. In any case, BAD FRAMING was to blame! If you are hoping to stabilize a rectified wall, you need to correct the framing and / or reinforcement with beams.

The frame bar that you see coming out of the pier was set up at the point of construction, but this wall in the medina

Why rebuild a curved wall The bricklayer's way can make it a lot weaker than before

When a mason or a regular contractor rebuilds a wall, he inevitably ends up making a new wall, but weaker. This is because when an ordinary wall rebuilt or under pinning is done, the new wall has a space left at the top. This gap is usually stalled and then pointed up. This changes the load on the wall from the direct pressure to a point load system.

Since the wall derives its strength from regular load distribution … the result is a much weaker wall! It means that you are simply throwing away your money. This also leads to long-term plaster cracking and wall failure. A few years ago, we discovered the reconstruction of walls without mortar, which is particularly suitable for wall reconstructions. In fact, we can even remove our cylinders as soon as the last block is put in place and you can too!

Did you know that the pyramids were actually built without any mortar at all and were speculated to be over 10,000 years old!

More than 12 years ago, I came across one of the biggest secrets of basement wall reconstruction, literally by accident. I discovered how to "stick" concrete blocks together without using mortar between blocks. The technique was developed in ancient Roman architecture some of which stands to this day. In fact, there are still 2000 year old Roman roads in Europe still today!

Owens Corning Fiberglass spent millions of dollars testing and proving this ancient Roman technique and putting it in almost every major building code authority in the late 1960s. They did tests proving that a mortar wall is up to five times weaker than a wall glued to the surface. Or, to put it another way our walls are five times stronger than ordinary mortar walls, which means that you and your family can sleep safely all night knowing that they are also strong as a fortress

I started working on this process twelve years ago and I have developed structural repair strategies that utilize the incredible benefits of this revolutionary process [19659002] The biggest difference is the immediate ability to apply pressure to the wall. complete the process. This comes from the fact that there is no mortar to crush between the blocks. Ordinary masons must build the new wall and leave a space between the threshold plate and the top of the block. They then broke wedges in each couple of feet and finally tuck points away. It's a horribly inefficient mess and does several things that ensure the new wall will fail like the old one.

Why dry and surface glued walls are 5 X stronger

The concept is very simple. The ordinary mortar walls are weak and have trowel mortar between them to level the yards. Many mistakenly believe that the mortar sticks. This is not true, however. A mortar joint is called a cold joint. A cold seal is a very weak porosity only, a bond. Everyone knows that when we apply old concrete, it does not stick, it does not adhere and it does not stick.

In fact, anyone who has ever seen an inclined basement wall will notice that the walls can be cracked. everywhere, but still does not give way. This is because the pressure down the house exceeds the pressure exerted by the floor. The concept behind a super-wall glued on the surface is simple.

Imagine a wall made of 8 wooden blocks of wood a, b, c. Stack them in your mind. Now imagine that you apply the pressure evenly from above. The more pressure you add, the stronger the blocks. Then imagine that you put your hand on top but that you only cover half of it.

See the blocks shooting in the room. You see even the distribution of the load is ALL !!!

Imagine now that these same abc wooden children's blocks were stacked, but with duct tape going on both sides of the blocks. Now add the imaginary pressure – that's right; incredibly strong ! By applying a surface link, you turn the entire stack into a connecting beam. Unbelievable!

In real life, when laying dry, the first layer is traditionally laid in a mortar bed to level the whole and the rest of the blocks are stacked in staggered layers, like traditional masonry "Once the walls completed until the last course, this top process comes into play. At the top of the course, cut the top blocks of a 1/16 of an inch on the gap between the sill plate and the next cape Then take a jack and lift just enough pressure to get the block, that way.It's something that could not be done with mortar.Move, cut, lift, set.We: move, coupons, let's get up,

Finish the last class, and by the time you're done … now, the house is resting its weight and transferring it right from the threshold to the foot of the page. always recommend correcting any threshold plate or any pro FRAMING before by starting the repair. Now once the entire wall has been rebuilt, then smooth a skim coat like stucco all over the outside and inside the wall. This mud contains tens of thousands of "cat hair" fibers, which were formerly fiberglass but are now made of nylon.

This process of mixing a fibrous matrix in a cement mixture goes up to Egypt where they mixed straw with mud before making bricks. More recently, 20th century cement plasterers have used horse hair in plaster to reinforce it. The nylon fibers of today are the modern equivalent of the space age. And when they are mixed in a high-strength waterproof surface bonding cement, which has mixed a chemical bonding adhesive that chemically makes it "sticky" to the wall – the end result is a super-bonded high-strength bonding beam. This makes it incredibly tuff and gives you a true peace of mind guarantee knowing that your new wall is now 5 times stronger against side or side loads.

Curved walls can be straightened and saved TOO!

Re-build the wall. If the blocks are mostly intact, they can be saved in many cases. The process consists of first digging the outer wall up to the base of the footer. Then we grind the joints inside that are broken. Then a series of planks are installed against the curved walls. With the help of baoves and evenly applied skill and pressure, slowly force the walls back into place.

You can successfully repair the most incredibly sloping walls you've ever imagined. And make it stronger than new!

To do this, you have to repair the FRAMING problems that contributed to the break, and then reinforce the walls using beams or carbon fiber strips. The traditional beams are cemented under the slab. and tied into the wooden frame at the top thus ensuring all the courses and keeping the wall in place. More recent technological advances have led to the development of carbon fiber wall reinforcement systems, which eliminate the loss of space created by beams and are more cosmetic effects. The wall is ground with diamonds and high-strength carbon fiber strips are "glued" to the wall with resin. This technology is used in modern aviation and stealth technologies

Both do exactly the same thing … strengthen the wall up.

Buy now if you have a structural problem, I'm sure you can see why you need to turn to the experts. Over the years, we have tested, innovated and improved all types of foundation systems available, knowing that you can not be fooled by any of the subcontractors of our system.

How can I tell if my basement is really waterproof?

Chances are if we did not do it … It probably is not. … you see, tar has never been rated as waterproof! Did you know that in building codes, there are two distinct definitions for waterproofing (tar) and waterproofing?

Moisture proofing means, by definition, "something that slows down the penetration of water into the substrate". HHMMM "helps slow down" sounds quite different from the definition of waterproofing: "something that prevents the penetration of water", and not only prevents water, it must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to be bent around a cylinder. This requirement eliminates all crystalline and cementitious mastics.

Waterproof sealants are almost exclusively used and installed COMMERCIALLY … (because they are more expensive). The additional costs are what prevents the average entrepreneur from offering you, the owner, an effective product that will last and "withstand the test of time".

I recommend using a MULTI-STAGE EXTERIOR SEALING SYSTEM that uses a cement. fiber-reinforced reinforced wall resurfacing system and NOT LESS TWO TWO waterproof sealants. However, this is by no means the cheapest method, and it may not be the best system to put in place. The system you must use depends entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There is no miracle system that can solve ALL basement problems. What I can guarantee you is that if you use a multi-stage waterproof system, the water will run away from the foundations and the water leak will be a thing of the past, but waterproofing products will last longer with wood. GUARANTEED house!

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Source by Charles Boday

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