Designing rain gutter systems for home construction


After I received the 2008 edition of the Michigan State Building Code, 39 I looked eagerly through the table of contents for the rain gutters to find no mention of those troubling troughs hanging at the edges of a roof. So I looked at the index only to be disappointed again. No special mention was made of rain gutter systems. I am a licensed construction contractor here in Michigan and have been repairing, reprocessing and cleaning gutters for over five years. Gutters are not designed in a house; Long-term maintenance problems and damage caused by poorly designed and installed gutters cost millions of dollars.

Millions of dollars in injuries and even the death of owners trying to clean their gutters must also be taken into account. Start with the note; How does water flow naturally around the house? The roof and gutters should be oriented so that water flows away from the house and never on walks, walks, terraces or patios. A cistern to hold water for irrigation can then be the starting point for designing your home.

Here are several design details that should be incorporated into the building code:

1. A downspout is required for a gutter run should not exceed twenty feet. This will result in a 1/20-inch slope per linear foot, which will reduce mold, mold and breeding grounds of mosquitoes by subtracting one foot for each angle in- Outdoor. Do not exceed 18 "without hose down.

2. The downspouts will be "commercial" (3 "X 4" or 4 "round) .The largest pipe will not clog with the leaves and seeds as easily.


4.Downspouts will be attached to the gutter by cutting the tabs into the bottom of the trough then leaning them down to allow a screw or pop rivet to secure the

5. "One-piece" offset elbows will be used instead of the two-part elbows which will be used to remove the leaflet. Are usually assembled on the spot now.Depending on my experience, I have not yet seen these compensations of one piece block .The upper two – part elbow is where the big one

6. The vertical hose shall have a maximum of three turns, and the hoof must be removed to disengage the hoof. Two at the exit of the gutter and one at the bottom extension.

7. Descent pipes that are not vertical should be avoided!

8. The bottom of the lower elbow shall be at least one foot above the grade with an extension of four feet.

9. Downspouts or gutters will NEVER be left on a roof surface or in a roof valley.

10. A minimum of two pipe strips shall be used for each downpipe or every ten feet of descent to secure the vertical pipe to the house.

11. "Internal" or "hidden" hangers with screws will be used instead of the gutter nails. These interior hangers are much better than the old nails that must be located precisely in the ends of rafters, ceiling joists or trusses to function properly.

12. Timber will be used "two by two" (2 x 6 or 2 x 8) rather than one inch boards now used to make the fascia. The timber will be coated with pre-coated aluminum to permanently seal the wood elements. This will allow internal hangers to be placed every twenty-four inches with little need for accuracy.


Too often, houses are designed for the sidewalk lure and the roof is not considered a functional system to protect the house from the elements , But as a fashion statement. Free use of steep slopes, valleys, ridges, dormers, gables and even turrets will only diminish the long-term value of a home. Reducing the flow of water and improving the irrigation needs of the landscaping can be a huge benefit to the environment. The cost to replace roofs, clean and maintain gutters and potential damage caused by water intrusion must be balanced with the aesthetics of the home: shape follows function; Beauty is reflected in the functionality of design.


Source by Frank Kalinski

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